When I first became fashion-conscious in the early 1990s, the world of fashion still operated in recognisable cycles. Shopping for clothing was an event. We would save up to buy new clothes periodically, and the style-conscious (which I prided myself on becoming) eagerly awaited fashion shows to preview the trends that would hit the shops months later.

However, by the late 1990s and early 2000s, the fashion landscape began to shift dramatically with the advent of fast fashion. Shopping transformed from a planned activity to fill wardrobe needs to a form of entertainment. Simply, we shopped to cheer ourselves up, to celebrate, or simply because we were bored. 

Fast fashion retailers offered trendy, low-cost knock-offs that allowed consumers to wear runway-inspired styles without breaking the bank. Brands like H&M and Zara pioneered this movement, accelerating the pace at which fashion trends reached the masses.

Fast fashion revolutionised the industry by bringing stylish, affordable clothing quickly from design to retail. These collections were often based on styles seen at various fashion weeks or worn by celebrities, making them accessible to everyone. This shift was fueled by cheaper, faster manufacturing and shipping methods, as well as the growing purchasing power of young consumers.

But there was a human and environmental cost. As the demand for the latest styles grew, fast fashion brands relied on a global supply chain that often cut corners, underpaying workers and using cheap, plastic-based fabrics. This not only led to poor labour practices but also significant environmental damage, including water pollution and textile waste. Despite these issues, fast fashion continued to thrive, driven by consumer appetite for newness and affordability.

The 2010s saw the rise of an even more extreme version of this trend: ultra-fast fashion. Brands like Shein and Boohoo took the fast fashion model and amplified it, drastically reducing the time from design to market. Shein grew rapidly, despite being founded in 2008 — the year of the global financial crash. 

Ultra-fast fashion is characterised by its lightning-fast production cycles, ever-changing trends, and further reduced labor and environmental standards. Shein epitomises this model, adding over 30,000 new items to their website annually and pricing thousands of items under £5.

Ultra-fast fashion leverages advanced technology and a globalised supply chain to meet consumer demand at unprecedented speeds. Social media, especially platforms like TikTok, plays a crucial role in this demand generation. The result is a business model that thrives on data and addictive marketing, creating an insatiable desire for new, cheap clothing.

However, this rapid production and consumption come at a steep cost. Shein’s business model, for instance, relies on a vast network of independent suppliers who can design and manufacture garments in just two weeks. There are reports of workers enduring 75-hour weeks and round-the-clock warehouse operations. Additionally, the environmental impact of ultra-fast fashion is alarming, with massive amounts of plastic-based clothing contributing to pollution and waste.

Despite these issues, ultra-fast fashion continues to grow, driven by consumer demand for instant gratification and the allure of low prices. 

What I wore today:

SHEIN LUNE Eyelet Embroidery Knot Front Tee, white – 3 wears

Women’s Solid Color Basic Daily Leggings – 6 wears

Beige trench coat (thrifted) – 9 wears

2024 New Style College Wind Black & White Outdoor Sports Shoes for Women – 13 wears

Allover Leaf Graphic Drawstring Backpack – 6 wears

Fashionable Sunglasses – 5 wears

DAZY Women’s Floral Print Sleeveless Round Neck Sleep Dress – 13 wears

3pack Lace Trim No Show Brief, black – 4 wears

Lace Flower Pattern Thin Underwear Set, bra – 6 wears

3pcs Jewelry Set, necklace – 2 wears

3pairs/set Fashionable Women’s Socks, grey – 3 wears