Day 86: What Public Eye revealed about the treatment of workers at Shein factories

9/18/2024

Day 86: What Public Eye revealed about the treatment of workers at Shein factories

Swiss NGO Public Eye carried out a groundbreaking investigation into Shein’s manufacturing practices three years ago. It followed this up with a second report published earlier in 2024, which also raised serious concerns about the fashion giant’s purported commitment to sustainability.

Despite Shein’s public claims of improvement, the report reveals that illegal working hours and piecework wages remain prevalent among workers in the company’s supply chain, Public Eye said.

The follow-up investigation, conducted in late summer 2023, involved interviews with 13 workers in Guangzhou’s Panyu District, an area near Shein’s headquarters. One worker described their grueling schedule: “I work every day from 8 in the morning to 10.30 at night and take one day off each month. I can’t afford any more days off because it costs too much.”

This statement echoes findings from Public Eye’s 2021 investigation, indicating that 75-hour workweeks are still the norm. Despite Shein’s Code of Conduct that prohibits more than 60 hours of work per week (including overtime) and mandates at least one day off weekly, these guidelines appear to be largely ignored .

Wages for Shein’s factory workers have also seen little change, according to the report. Depending on factors like the factory, season, and worker expertise, monthly wages fluctuate between CNY6,000 and CNY10,000 (£641-£1,068). For many, this figure includes substantial overtime hours. Skilled workers specializing in certain techniques may earn over CNY10,000 per month, but others report earnings as low as CNY6,000.

Following the initial Public Eye report in 2021, Shein attempted to reassure the public by commissioning an audit that claimed working conditions had improved. However, the “Supplier Factory Wage Investigation Audit” lacked transparency and failed to address key issues such as excessive working hours, argued Public Eye.

The NGO pointed out that the audit omitted data on working hours and the lowest wages, crucial indicators of potential rights violations. Its skepticism is further fueled by the deletion of certain quotes from Shein’s website, including one praising the company’s commitment to fair wages.

Additional concerns include fire risks and the potential use of child labour. The report notes that smoking bans are not enforced in factories, and fabric remnants are often piled on the floor, increasing fire hazards. Investigators also observed young people, estimated to be 14 or 15 years old, working in the factories, raising questions about Shein’s strict “zero tolerance” policy on child labour. While Shein claims to have set up daycare centres to address this issue, their actual efficacy remains unclear.

The findings of this follow-up investigation show the need for external oversight to enforce better labour practices at Shein, Public Eye said. Despite growing international awareness and legislative initiatives aimed at regulating the fast fashion industry, Shein continues to operate in ways that prioritise profit over the welfare of its workers, the report argued. Public Eye said that meaningful change will only occur through robust legislative action that holds fast-fashion companies accountable for their impact on both people and the environment.

Shein’s detailed response to Public Eye’s findings can be read here.

Everything I wore on day 86 of the 90 days of Shein challenge: